January 26, 2023: Our New Zealand Road Trip took us from Dunedin through the Catlins along the wild southeast coast. This remote area rewards the trek: it hosts petrified forests, Niagara Falls, and stunning coastal views.
“We take photos as a return ticket to a moment otherwise gone.”
Katie Thurmes
Jean and I enjoyed five nights in Dunedin, capped by celebrating Burns Night with the locals. Despite the good-natured goading of our newfound Scots-Kiwi friends around the table, we’d overindulged in neither haggis nor scotch, and so made an early start on the Southern Scenic Route to Invercargill.
The Southern Scenic Route
The Southern Scenic Route follows the Catlins coast. North of the road are lush temperate forests, with many waterfalls fed by the abundant rain. To the south lies a rugged windswept coast with views across the South Pacific for some 1600 miles to Antarctica.
Nugget Point Lighthouse
Our first stop, Nugget Point Lighthouse, provided some of the most dramatic photos from our entire trip. Cerulean seas churned against the rocky “nuggets” littered below the lighthouse. The winding path draws the eyes to the lighthouse the imperceptible sea/sky horizon.
As we turned back on the trail, we noticed seabirds on cliffs far below, with nests suspended above the tides. Lower still, baby fur seals lounged on the rocks.
Just inland away this most beautiful sight of the entire trip was one of the kitschiest – Teapotland. Someone’s filled their front yard with every type of teapot imaginable. A dear friend collects teapots (though not nearly so many as these). So we snapped a photo and sent it right along, as we knew she’d get a laugh. Here’s another for you Ellyn!
Niagara Falls
Waterfall hikes abound in the Catlins forests. We had a long drive so stopped only for two short treks. Our first, Purakauni, reminded us of Transylvania County in the North Carolina Blue Ridge, not far from our home in Charlotte. While pleasant, we didn’t linger, as the “main event” was still ahead: Niagara Falls.
I certainly credit whomever named New Zealand’s Niagara Falls with a sense of humor.
Curio Bay Petrified Forest
More than 170 million years ago, New Zealand’s volcanos leveled and entombed a forested coastal plain. Over millennia, the fallen tree trunks petrified, and then were exposed again by the endless waves. At Curio bay, stone stumps and logs lie exposed at low tide. The BBC published an insightful article on the Curio Bay Forest if you’d like to know more.
Windswept Slope Point
Slope Point made for our final stop. This is the southernmost point of New Zealand’s South Island, where Antarctic winds howl. Farmers planted windbreaks to shelter their livestock, and the winds have twisted the trees into bizarre shapes. I’m very glad we are here in summer!
It was getting late, so with a quick photo, we were on to Invercargill.