February 11, 2023: Our little blue bach in Punakaiki felt far from civilization. We had only the waves, weka, and bloodthirsty sand flies for company as we admired the blue horizon of the Tasman Sea.
“The most mischievous animals here are the small black sand-flies, which are very numerous and so troublesome that they exceed everything of the kind I ever met with.”
Captain James Cook, HMS Endeavor, 1769
The Maori call sandflies “te namu” – little devils – an apt name. According to their legend, Hinenui-te-Po, the goddess of death, released sandflies in an attempt to keep people away from such a beautiful place. And while very annoying, they couldn’t keep us away from our little blue bach on the Tasman sea, north of Punakaiki.
The Little Blue Bach
Jean and I wanted to explore the remote western shore of New Zealand’s South Island. This is a place Kiwis go to “get away from it all” in a seaside bach – a small, modest holiday home. The word bach (pronounced “batch”) supposedly comes from an abbreviation of “bachelor pad,” or possibly from Welsh ty bach for “little house.” According to Google Translate, ty bach can also mean “outhouse.” Hmmm…
The Little Blue Bach was dramatically situated just a couple of meters above the surf crashing on the rocks. The view from the tub was spectacular, as wis the living room vista. Perhaps the best view though was from the ty bach – the outhouse! But the sandflies prevented any extended enjoyment of the throne.
Little Blue Book
In the bach we found a beautifully illustrated children’s book called “A Little Blue.” It tells the story of a young girl’s summer with her dad in this very house, and little blue penguins they found nesting under the little blue bach. We were fortunate to meet the author at the Fox River Summer Market and get a copy for ourselves!
Pancake Rocks
Nearby, Pancake Rocks made for an easy afternoon hike. The sedimentary rock layers were formed over eons and thrust up from the seafloor by shifting tectonic plates. Pancake Rocks are at ~42° South Latitude, in what sailors call the “roaring 40s.” Here winds howl, often at gale force. The waves driven by these gales have battered the rocks into bizarre and beautiful shapes.
On the Road Again
After an early morning run (faster than usual as I fled te namu), we said goodbye to the little blue bach.
Next stop… the New Zealand road trip continues at Hotel Motueka Bar to watch the KANSAS CITY CHIEFs in Superbowl LVII!
