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The Safari Begins: Enashiva

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September 13, 2024: The Tanzania Safari begins with our first stop at Enashiva, a private nature refuge in the Eastern Serengeti. 

There is something about safari life that makes you forget all your sorrows and feel as if you had drunk half a bottle of champagne — bubbling over with heartfelt gratitude for being alive.

Karen Blixon, Author of “Out of Africa”

We met ourTanzania Safari travel partners as we departed: Mark and Mary from New Hampshire, and Scott and Kathy from Wisconsin.  Another couple, Michael and Cheryl from Texas, were traveling on a private tour but joined us for much of the first week.  We were fortunate to have a convivial group!

The Safari Crew
Our Safari Crew – Scott, Kathy, Michael, Cheryl, Mary, Mark, Jean, me, with Babu and Ali our intrepid guides

From Arusha we departed by plane for the Eastern Serengeti.  Our destination:  Enashiva, our first Nyumba (camp).  The name means “happiness” in the Maasai language, and the word understated our enthusiasm to finally start our safari.

Here we go… in a Cessna 208 Caravan

Mountain of God

I was fortunate to sit “co-pilot” in our Cessna 208 Caravan and enjoyed expansive views of Masaai grazing land of the Eastern Serengeti.  We flew straight to and over Ol Doinyo Lengai, “The Mountain of God,” a 10,000-foot-high volcano.  To the east, glacier-topped Kilimanjaro looked huge even some hundred miles distant.  

Ol Doinyo Lengai, “The Mountain of God”
The last big eruption was in 2008, but this looks more recent!
Kilimanjaro 100 miles distant

As we made our landing approach, I spotted our first exotic wildlife: a lone wildebeest laying in the center of the dusty runway.  He belatedly fled as our shadow approached, joined in his run by a Thompson’s gazelle and a herd of domestic goats that had been hiding in the grass nearby.  We deplaned and joined our guide, Ali.

On the road to Enashiva

The Road to Happiness

The hour-long drive tour camp began the safari in earnest.  We passed a Maasai market and village, and entered the nature reserve.  And immediately, we spotted iconic African wildlife:  zebra, wildebeest (gnu), ostrich, jackal, gazelle, eland, warthog and giraffe.  Our cameras clicked like paparazzi while Ali patiently stopped again and again.

Jackal
Ostrich
Enashiva
Kathy’s Favorite!
Enashiva
Black-Faced Monkey
Enashiva
Impala
Enashiva
Long Way Down

Safari Afoot

After settling in and lunch, we did a walk through the park, accompanied by Ali and a local Maasai, Dixon.  Safari afoot is only possible in the few private reserves like Enashiva; it is not permitted (nor safe!) in the national parks.  But here, we were free to walk among the herds. 

Michael and Dixon

Our day finished with sundowners on the plains, dinner at camp and a quiet bonfire as a billion stars twinkled above. 

Enashiva
Sundowners Day One
Bonfire and a Billion Stars
First Safari Sunset

Enashiva – happiness indeed.

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