Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts

The Zagreb Rerun

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Journeys » The Zagreb Rerun

July 23, 2023: We had time for a quick Zagreb Rerun this year.  Though short, it was a nostalgic stop, like visiting an old friend.

Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness.

Mark Twain

Our Croatia Trip in 2021 was our first outside of “western culture”.  Our limited awareness was a 1963 James Bond flick.  The Slavic tongue was difficult (were are the vowels?).  The body language and customs seemed unfriendly.  UN Peacekeepers had been in the region just 30 years prior trying to avert the worst horrors at the end of communism in the Balkans.  And gang tagging marred many old buildings as we taxied into Zagreb from the airport on arrival. 

Yeah, we were nervous.

But trepidation slowly warmed into delight (see Zagreb Impressions from 2021).  The people are friendly and happy to have us.  The city was clean. The food was good. Croatia has become one of our favorite places.  And a Zagreb rerun fit perfectly into our 2023 Central Europe trip.

The Croatian National Theater
The Croatian National Theater

Long Train Runnin’

Our train from Budapest arrived in Zagreb about 10:30pm.  A hot (windows, no a/c) seven-hour journey behind us, we were exhausted and chose sleep over another Zagreb Saturday Night.  From the station we stumbled across the street to Hotel Central.  Our reunion with the city would wait for morning.

The Dolac

Jean was up early to revisit the Dolac, Zagreb’s city-center produce market.  She keenly observed the grandmothers with hand-trolleys.  This is the easiest way to identify the best vendors, and best produce.  Just as the grandmothers did, Jean counted out exact change for the bell peppers, onion, cucumber, and peaches that were to be our lunch.

The Dolac Market
The Dolac Market
Flower Sellers outside Dolac
Flower Sellers outside Dolac

The Rerun

While Jean shopped, I started a “rerun” of Bundek Park, nostalgically repeating a long route from 2021.  A careless step changed the plan before I reached ½ mile; a loose cobblestone sent me to the ground with a badly sprained right ankle. 

The Croatian National Theater
The Croatian National Theater
The Manneken Pis from Brussels
The Manneken Pis from Brussels

After muttering and massaging it for 15 minutes, I stubbornly decided to continue, with a much shorter route through Lenuci Park in Donji Grad (downtown).  The alternate route was a gift; locals celebrated a folk festival in the park, complete with costumes and excellent vocal music.  Pausing to listen helped my ankle and my mood considerably.

Croatian Folk Singers in Lenuci Park
Croatian Folk Singers in Lenuci Park
Tomizlav Park
Tomizlav Park
The Zagreb Rerun
The Zagreb Rerun

Onward

Jean and I soon reconnected, pleased and a bit nostalgic about our brief reconnection with Zagreb, where our MnJTravel2 international travels had begun.  We collected our Renault Clio from CarWhiz, and were off to Slovenia and new adventures.

More Bytes from The Central Europe Trip

The Dragon Cave

Centuries ago, monks carved the fantastical Dragon Cave reliefs high above the sea as they hid in from pirates and invading Turks.

Summer in Bol

We have seen some beautiful places in our travels, but we come back to summer in Bol again and again. It remains our second favorite place!

Baška Voda

Baška Voda is stunning, with hyper-saturated blue skies and water, and the Biokovo Massif looming overhead.  Do we maybe have a new second favorite place?

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2 thoughts on “The Zagreb Rerun

  1. Hi Mark, love your travel blogs. Hope your ankle is ok! Please ask Jean to check her email for a time sensitive message that needs her reply, thanks!

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