January 13, 2025: In the heart of Australia, red earth meets an unyielding blue sky at Uluru. The heat is fierce, but the photography spectacular.
I love a sunburnt country,
Dorothea Mackellar’s lovely poem “My Country”
A land of sweeping plains,
Of ragged mountain ranges,
Of droughts and flooding rains.
I love her jewel-sea,
Her beauty and her terror –
The wide brown land for me!
Uluru… way Outback
Australia is ten-times the size of Texas, but with fewer people. And almost all Australians – 87% – live within 30 miles of the coast, making the rest of the country quite empty. In fact, there are only about 0.04 people per square mile in Australia’s “Outback”. As comparison, Alaska has a rural population of about 1 person per square mile. Yes, this a lonely place indeed.
A harsh arid climate pervades the Outback. While Aboriginals have thrived here for roughly 50,000 years, it is certainly no Garden of Eden. Summer highs are well over 100F, with scant shade or rain. It is reminiscent of the desert southwest in the US – only far larger, and with no mountains.
The Great Rock
In the Red Center of Australia a great sandstone monolith towers 1100’ above the surrounding plain: Uluru (Ayers Rock). The rock was formed 500 million years ago from compressed alluvial sediment. Then about 100-200 million years later, massive geological forces rolled the whole mass. It remains canted at 90 degrees, the once horizontal layers striated toward the skies.
“I’m suggesting nothing here, but I will say that if you were an intergalactic traveler who had broken down in our solar system, the obvious directions to rescuers would be: “Go to the third planet and fly around till you see the big red rock. You can’t miss it.“
Bill Bryson, “In a Sunburned Country”
A Spiritual Place
The local Mala people, custodians of this land, believe Uluru was created long ago in The Dreaming. And who knows? They may be right. The Aboriginal stories are probably the oldest in the world, as old as the cave paintings in Europe. Uluru remains a sacred place for the Mala. In fact, Uluru is a pilgrimage of sorts for many Australians.
Sunrise
We visited for three days in January – summer’s zenith with a blazing sun and whispering winds. The early mornings and late afternoons offered some respite from the furnace; we ventured out only then to view the desert wonders.
Sunrise brings a slow magic, as the grey hulk of Uluru slowly brightens to a vibrant burnt-orange, framed by the pale desert greenery that survives on Uluru’s deep springs. Crowds boarded the bus at 4:30am for the sunrise viewing, but it was easy to find quiet on the trails.
A Walk in the Sun
On our first morning, Jean and I hiked the Base Walk that circles Uluru. There are a few shady oases in the shadows of the rock, and we lingered. But the heat rises quickly on the exposed track, and we suffered for our dalliance. We finished flushed and sweating at 10:30; the trail closes at 11am due to the heat.
On our second morning, I ran the track, enjoying the morning desert breeze as I hustled along. But I was glad to be done and on the bus by 8:15am, as the heat was rising even then.
Wintjiri Wiṟu
A brief storm blew through on our first evening. It brought a short respite from the heat but kiboshed our sunset plans. However, the second night was ideal. We witnessed an incredible Mala storytelling done with lasers and drones called Wintjiri Wiṟu. The name means “beautiful view to the horizon,” and it certainly lived up to the name. The show was expensive and short – but unlike anything we have ever seen. Over 1200 lighted drones create moving images across the sky as the story is told. As a plus, cheese, crackers and unlimited (and quite good) wine was served as well. If you visit Uluru, this is a must do.
Get There
Without doubt, Uluru is a once in a lifetime visit, remote and solemn. When you go – fly into Uluru (Ayer’s Rock Airport) directly. Driving from just about any large city in Australia takes 25-30 hours through a vast and lonely expanse. Even “nearby” Alice Springs airport, which looks close on the map, is five hours away. So if you do drive, be sure fill up the tank first!
Next up in the Journey is another Australian icon: The Great Barrier Reef
Outstanding story!!! I learned so much about this remote and sacred place, and loved that you experienced its wonders in different ways: hiking; running; and the amazing drone show. Thanks for letting us accompany you on your global journey through these wonderful postings and memorable photographs!