Golden Bay

February 17, 2023: Golden Bay, tucked away in the remote northwest corner of the South Island, hides several remarkable natural sights. 

“I would rather own little and see the world than own the world and see little of it.”

Alexander Sattler

Many New Zealand visitors make the pilgrimage to Abel Tasman National Park.  Far fewer venture just a little further, up and over narrow Tākaka Pass, to Golden Bay.  But Locals know:  with great weather, this is a popular place for holiday bachs and retirees.

Full Circle on the Name?

The original Maori name for this area is Mahua, meaning golden head. In 1642 Abel Tasman named this area Murderers Bay after four of his crew died in the first European/Maori contact. James Cook renamed it Blind Bay when he navigated the channel between the North and Sout Islands 128 years later. In another 72 years, it became Coal Bay after a discovery at Tākaka.  And next, Golden Bay when – you guessed it – miners found gold in 1857. 

Finally in 2014, the government added the original Maori name to the map, and it now reads Golden Bay / Mohua. So taken literally the name is now Golden Bay / Golden Head. Things that make you go hmm…

Well, the place certainly is a treasure for nature-lovers. While Wharariki Beach is the crown jewel, there are other gems nearby.

Anatoki Salmon

Here, “cast your line and land your lunch.”  The Anatoki Salmon staff clean, smoke, and vacuum-pack your catch.  The most effective bait is… salmon.  Yes, they are cannibals!  So enjoy dinner guilt-free.

Labyrinth Rocks

Elaboratly weathered rocks form a fantastic maze at Labyrinth Rocks.  Clever locals have created an entertaining self-guided scavenger hunt within, with toy cars, plastic dinosaurs, and the like.  Though the labyrinth is small, one can easily get lost.  Snap a picture of the map before entering! 

The Grove Track

The Grove Trail yields a surprisingly big reward for a half-mile hike.  After climbing through fanciful rock formations, you will reach a tiny platform snug between two huge boulders.  The views are outstanding.

Rawhiti Cave

In Rawhiti Cave, the stalactites grow towards the sun.  The cave mouth is open to sunlight, causing an unusual phenomenon called phytokarst.  Plants grow on the sunny side of stalactites and trap mineral-laden waters dripping down.  Those trapped minerals calcify, causing the stalactites to literally grow toward the sun.  The resulting shapes are surreal, and well worth the muddy trek up the hill to the entrance.

Te Waikoropupu Springs

Water bubbles up from the depths of Te Waikoropupu Springs at a rate of 14,000 liters per second. That is over 13 million gallons per hour!  And these waters are some of the clearest in the world, with a horizontal visibility of ~75 meters.  On a clear day, the colors are mesmerizing; it is no wonder the area is sacred to the Maori.

Morning Run at the Tidal Flats

Of course I found a beautiful place to run in Golden Bay. Time and tide made the Motupipi tidal flats a different run every day. A pair of cranes turned and took wing each morning as I huffed by, but the other foul paid me no mind. Were it not for the occasional car passing, this would be idyllic.

I’ve covered the highlights of the South Island from our New Zealand road trip. Up next, New Zealand wine!