New Zealand Wine

February-March, 2023: Sauvignon Blanc is the star of New Zealand Wine.  But there is much more here.  And the Kiwis keep the best to themselves!  

“I’m not a wine expert, but I’m willing to learn by tasting.”

We could easily make a month-long New Zealand sojourn just sipping our way through the various regions.  As it was, we visited.. um, shall we say more than a few cellar doors. Highlights of New Zealand wine are below, along with our favorite winery!

The (short, I promise) History of New Zealand Wine

Surprisingly, much of the early New Zealand wine history was made by Croatian immigrants.  Yes, those same immigrants who put American wine on the map!  Many Croats left the endless Balkan wars to make a better life in New Zealand and brought their winemaking traditions along.  Much of their early production was nicknamed “Dally Plonk” – slang for crappy Dalmatian wine (think Boone’s Farm).  But it sold well enough though to the lumberjacks and miners, and got better and better over time.  These same Croat families now produce award winning wines! 

The New Zealand wine story gets interesting in the 1970s.  The British joined the European Economic Community, and that was the end of the trade protections on sheep and dairy that NZ had enjoyed as a former colony.  Kiwis had to find more profitable crops, and many converted marginal pastures into vineyards.  But the wine from the hybrid grapes just wasn’t compelling though. 

Then… magic.  The first sauvignon blanc vines were planted in Marlborough in 1975. The vines thrived there like nowhere else in the world.  The combination of long sunny days, cool nights, dry autumn conditions made for startlingly good wines, sharp and bright, and difficult to replicate in other geographies.  An Australian winemaker realized the potential, and started Cloudy Bay, the first award-winning winery.  By the 1990s, New Zealand wine was on the map.

Marlborough – King of Sauvignon Blanc

About 60% of NZ wine is from Marlborough, and sauvignon blanc is definitely king.  Sauv blanc comprises 86% of New Zealand’s wine exports, and 90% of that comes from Marlborough!

We are not typically white winos (er, white wine aficionados I mean).  But the Marlborough stuff is good.  According to wine experts, conditions here give the sauvignon blanc “intense aromatics of passion fruit, gooseberry, along with grassy flavors.”  We say that you can hardly go wrong with whether buying a $9 or $99 bottle.  They are just predictably good, especially on a hot day.

We also found very nice reds here – Merlot, Cabernet Savignon, Cab Franc, and Syrah.  But sauvignon blanc is the star.

Renwick is a great little town to stay, with several wineries in easy biking distance. Our airbnb with Toni included free bikes, a nice plus!

Hawke’s Bay / Napier – Next Time

Hawke’s Bay and its city Napier comprise NZ’s second largest (and well known) wine region.  While winemaking here started with Marist missionaries in the mid-1800s it really took off in the late 1990s.  Here the climate is warmer than Marlborough.  The longer growing season is good for Bordeaux-style red blends that lean on Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. 

We planned to visit, but alas, Cyclone Gabrielle intervened, and we had to divert.  Prayers for a speedy recovery too all, we will see you next time.

Martinborough – Delightful Surprise

We diverted from Napier to Martinborough.  The thoroughly delightful town (population ~1,700) sustains itself on local wine tourism, with about 30 mostly family-owned wineries and several great restaurants.  We sipped at wineries, swam in the pool and did little else!

Martinborough’s climate mirrors the Burgundy region of France, so it is perhaps no surprise that Pinot Noir thrives.  The wine is traditional Burgundy style, subtle, dry and complex.  This really contrasts with the Gibbston Valley Pinot Noirs near Queenstown (next).

Gibbston Valley – Wwwaaayyy Down South

Just outside Queenstown, Gibbston Valley holds the southern-most vineyards on the planet.  The latitude here in Central Otago gives long sunny summer days, which help the slow-ripening Pinot Noir grape develop high sugar (resulting in high-alcohol wines).  Gibbston Valley’s surrounding peaks give cool nights but shelter the valley from freezing winds, giving the grapes high acidity and thus bright flavors.  The result is a fruity-spicy bam Pinot Noir, in contrast to the traditional subtlety of Martinborough. 

The area is also beautiful, with snowy-peaks, blazing fall colors and several lakes.  There are great cellar doors here, and we want to go back!  But our very favorite winery wasn’t here.

“It’s staggering how quickly New Zealand has built a reputation for quality Pinot Noir considering the first commercial bottling of Pinot Noir in the country was in 1987.”

Ray Jordan

Oh, remember I said that Kiwis keep the best wine for themselves? Pinot Noir makes up only 4% of New Zealand wine exports. Sneaky.

Waiheke Island – Most Beautiful Views

New Zealands “Isle of Wine” has some of the most picturesque (and expensive) wineries.  We visited Mudbrick and Cable Bay, both with views over the bay to Aukland.  The wines and ambience were great, but it was crowded.  About one-third of all Kiwis live in Auckland, and one-half of all tourists come through.  All of them seem to know about Waiheke Island. 

Don’t let that dissuade you – the ferry ride is nice, the views incredible, and the wines (mostly Bordeaux blends) are very good.  But it is posh, so pull out your credit card.  The island has a nice art scene and beaches also, it is worth a visit regardless.

Finally, our Favorite Winery

Himmelsfeld gets our vote: our favorite winery in New Zealand.  Don’t be put off by the clunky website or errant Google Maps photos.  Beth, the owner, has created something special here.  Our experience opened slowly, like a great wine, and only blossomed over the course of some time.  And that is worth a post all on its own.

Next on the New Zealand road trip… our Favorite New Zealand Winery.