Return to Aotearoa

March 28, 2026  Kia ora, New Zealand!  Two years ago, we fell in love with you.  So this year, we return to Aotearoa: land of the long white cloud. 

Where to next?

While we await our Portuguese residency, we must abide by the Schengen rules, which allow visitors to stay in Europe only 90 days out of every 180.  By mid-February, our time was up, and we needed to depart.  But where to go as we reset our Schengen clock? 

Back to New Zealand, of course! 

We first came to New Zealand in early 2023, and if you read our original post, you know we were smitten. The dramatic fjords and rocky coastlines, wildlife, wine, world-class hiking, wild beaches… with hobbits and elves to boot.  That road trip – to all three islands – was one of the great travel experiences of our lives. Jean even said in the comments: “Can’t wait to head out on the next adventure.”

Well, Jean, here we go again!

This time, our trip is more relaxed, with one very specific place where we will simply stop.  Forty nights on Haumoana beach in Hawke’s Bay. Friends traveling in to visit. Time to run, cook, read, write and breathe.

The Long Haul from Lisbon

New Zealand and the Iberian Peninsula (Portugal + Spain) are antipodes – as far apart as two places on the globe can be.  Imagine digging a hole straight down through the center of the Earth from our long stay in Haumoana and out the other side.  You would pop out just south and west of Toledo, Spain… only about 450 miles from where we started in Cascais.  

So no surprise, our sojourn began with a massive 25-hour haul from Lisbon to Auckland via Dubai on Emirates.  We were fortunate (and grateful), as our flight cleared the Middle East 12 days before the US-Iran conflict began.  As it was, jetlag was our only difficulty.  We muddled our way to a rural bed and breakfast near Auckland airport and slept about 12 hours the first night. 

Melting Jetlag

The next day, we drove three hours south to soak in the Wairakei Terraces thermal pools.  The terraces, located just north of Taupō town, offer a series of rock-edged pools fed by geothermal springs, surrounded by native bush.  We found a comfortable spot, and Jean tipped her head and neck back into the warm waters and the jetlag melted away.  After glass (or two) of NZ wine at the hotel bar, we slept another 12 hours.   

A tip we wish we had known before going:

KEEP YOUR HEAD ABOVE WATER

For two reasons…

First, Crunchy hair.  The sulfur water, while good for overall health, is not good for hair.  Jean’s hair was crunchy (even after a vinegar wash and loads of conditioner).  She eventually cut several inches off of the back.

Second, Brain-eating amoebas.  The warm waters may host amoebas that, if they find their way up your nasal passages, will eat your brain.  Such an infection becomes symptomatic within 10 days.  It has a 97% fatality rate, and no cure.

I wasn’t really concerned, as neither of us had submerged. Plus there were dozens of other people visiting the pools too (at $27 NZ a head).  It had to be safe, right?  But Jean was unusually grim and quiet as we continued our road trip. 

Suddenly, on the 11^th day, she exclaimed:

 “I’m alive!  My hair is still crunchy, but I’m alive!” 

Note for travelers: Taupō is an hour south of Rotorua, which offers more geothermal drama plus a great Māori cultural experience. We visited in 2023 and highly recommend it.  I recommend Wairakei Terraces as well; Jean not so much.

New Zealand Plan

Our trip will include a bit of sightseeing before our long stay in Haumoana.  If you are planning your own Aotearoa adventure, details can be found in the PDF at the bottom of this page, along with a map with our general route and stops of interest.  The itinerary and map of our first (more extensive) 2023 trip may be found here in similar format.

• Taupō – Wairakei Terraces, Huka Falls
• Wellington – Visiting Jennifer, Botanical Gardens, shows
• Marlborough – Lochmara Lodge (by water taxi), hiking, wineries
• Kaikōura – Whale watching, crayfish, peninsula hike
• Picton – Dinner and harbor walks before the morning ferry
• Martinborough – Birdwatching and wine
• Haumoana – 40-night beach residency, hosting friends, wineries, Art Deco
• TBD – Maybe Gisborne, Tolaga Bay, Raglan

Journey Map

Here is our approximate route, which you can view and add as a layer in your own Google Maps. The map outlines cities where we stayed, our route, some historical sites, and hikes along the way.

Detailed Itinerary

If you are interested in a similar trip, this detailed PDF itinerary is a good place to start!

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For more about our crazy journeys, check the Travel Bytes!